Bowls of goodness
Pho and ramen
By now, most of us are familiar with the cure-all properties of a good bowl of pho – the sweetly spiced steam of the broth clears the head of hangovers and head colds, while the abundance of fresh herbs make it feel slightly virtuous. Try it Out Vietnamese Restaurant in Ōtāhuhu serves more variations of this popular elixir than we’ve seen anywhere else. There’s the classic rare beef or chicken pho, as well as a version served with beef meatballs, beef shin, or tripe. 79 Atkinson Ave, Ōtāhuhu
Pho at Try it Out.
A bowl of ramen is fortifying and calorific enough to see you through a hard day’s physical labour, or in this case, through a bitter Auckland night. Kazuy-a Yamauchi is a perfectionist in the kitchen at his namesake fine-dining restaurant on Symonds Street, so you can expect an equally considered approach to ramen at his casual noodle joint, Zool Zool. Here you’ll find refined ramen dishes that are balanced, delicate and detailed – right down to the wine list matched to different types of broth. They also serve three-litre Orion beer towers, a guaranteed good time on a frosty winter’s eve. 405 Mt Eden Rd, Mt Eden
For a less traditional but no less comforting approach, try Chop Chop, where you can get your rye noodles and broth topped with barbecue pork, pork belly, crispy fried chicken, kimchi and corn – all in the same bowl. Wash it down with a little something from the long whisky list for a soothing salve for your cold bones. Ponsonby Central, 140 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby
Left: Zool Zool ramen dishes. Right: Zool Zool’s kakuni – honey-braised pork belly.
The Italian way
Pasta and pizza Neapolitan-style
Italian cuisine is by no means defined by pizza and pasta, but come winter anything with carbs, cheese and red sauce is calling our name. At Remuera’s Spacca, the generous portions of Neapolitan cuisine are laden with flavour and served up with a side of gregarious Italian sass. Their ragu Napoletano is cooked for six hours until fork-tender and piled atop bulky rigatoni, while lovers of cheese can go for mounds of spaghetti carbonara or gnocchi with a velvety gorgonzola and walnut sauce. Their pizza is served true to the region’s style, topped minimally with quality ingredients. There’s also swoon-inducing pizza fritte (fried pizza), where the toppings are sealed between two layers of dough before the whole thing is fried. 547 Remuera Rd, Remuera
Left to right: Spacca’s ragu, Spacca pizza maker Antonio Buonocore, Spacca’s Caprese salad.
One cannot talk about comfort without a mention of Coco’s Cantina, where everything – from the everybody-knows-your-name style of service, to the family living room interior – feels like a warm, welcoming hug. There’d be an Auckland-wide meltdown if the spaghetti and meatballs or polenta chips ever disappeared, but the rest of the menu evolves constantly and has been known to include comforting classics such as chicken and eggplant parmigiana, pork belly with grilled winter fruits, and lamb and pea ragu on hand-cut pasta. 376 Karangahape Rd
Left: Coco’s prized polenta chips. Right: The homely vibe at Coco’s
Carbs and cheese
Toastie champions
Remember when you’d get home from school with a hunger so ravenous you thought it could never be sated – then your mum would chuck a can of spaghetti and cheese in the jaffle maker and all your worries would melt away? At Champ in Newmarket they have given this after-school classic a makeover, with a carb-on-carb toastie that is stuffed with real spaghetti, herbed tomato sauce, cheese and Toulouse sausage from Pokeno. If the kid in you is feeling a little fancy, there’s also a version studded with corn, poached prawns and bacon; or aged Gruyere, truffle butter, mustard and chives.
Clockwise from left: A Champ toastie, Fort Greene’s Reuben sandwich, Fort Greene’s cheese toastie with sauerkraut, Toastie Bros’ cheese and red onion toastie.
If you’re more of a grilled cheese purist, go see two of Auckland’s most skilled sandwich slingers: Fort Greene serves their blend of vintage cheddar, edam, blue and cream cheese on house-made rye and flaxseed bread with a side of sauerkraut and pickles, the astringent antidote to all that grease; while Ceremony keeps it simple, smoky and a little sweet, with sharp cheddar, smoked gouda and caramelised onions on Wild Wheat’s kumara sourdough. 17A Remuera Rd, Newmarket; St Kevins Arcade, 183 K’ Rd; 7 Park Rd, Grafton
If you are braving the cold in the name of supporting your team, keep an eye out for Toastie Bros, who are set to pop up at major sporting events to feed the fans this winter (they’re not limited to sports events only, fortunately). This mobile purveyor serves its signature blend of cheddar, mozzarella and an undisclosed secret-weapon-cheese on white sourdough, with classic fillings such as ham off the bone and pineapple, bacon and caramelised onions, and creamy shrooms and truffle oil. But we are crushing on The Beef Bro: a 12-hour slow-cooked brisket toastie spiked with jalapenos. Various locations, toastiebros.co.nz
Kiwi classics
Roasts and all the trimmings
The bright side of a wet New Zealand winter are the Sunday roasts, buttery pies and winter fruit crumbles that inevitably come along with it. At Sean Connolly’s The Grill, fine cuts of steak are the main act, but we would like to shine a spotlight on the sides, which are reason enough to visit alone: The mac and cheese, bound by a smooth mix of pecorino and cheddar, would make a delightful dinner for one, accompanied by a side of confit mushrooms; Grandma’s carrots in parsley butter; or the lush potato mash with chicken gravy. Being a native Brit, Connolly also knows a thing or two about laying down a mean roast. On Sundays, a slow-roasted rib of Wakanui beef is served off the bone with Béarnaise sauce, red wine jus and Yorkshire pudding. 90 Federal St, central city
Clockwise from top: Comforting dishes at The Grill, Prego, The Grill’s mac and cheese.
If you can brave a blustery ferry ride across to Waiheke on a Sunday, the Oyster Inn’s roast is accompanied by live jazz (between 4–6pm). The cuts of meat change weekly and are served with all the trimmings. Make sure to reserve a roast when you book a table, as they often sell out. The rest of the menu is brimming with classic New Zealand dishes that make winter worth it, like Cloudy Bay clam chowder served with fried bread; smoked fish pie topped with potato mash; mac and cheese with bacon; and feijoa and apple crumble with vanilla ice cream. 124 Oceanview Rd, Oneroa, Waiheke Island
In the cooler months, Prego serves its Ponsonby-renowned pie – a golden, flaky thing of beauty served atop garlic mash, with a dollop of mushy peas and a pool of jus. Fillings change regularly, but expect Italian twists on classic fillings such as braised beef, rosemary and smoked provolone cheese. Hearty pies can also be found at Galbraith’s Alehouse, along with cosy vibes and other cockle warmers such as bangers and mash, or beer-battered fish, triple-cooked chips, mushy peas and tartare sauce. 226 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby; 2 Mt Eden Rd, Mt Eden
All-American
Burgers, deli food, sweet pies
You can find us at Federal Delicatessen all year round, indulging on their well-stacked sandwiches, mounds of messy poutine and slices of dreamy pie. But come cooler days, we are all about the warming effect of their steam kettle soups and winter vegetable salads such as grilled carrots, yoghurt, almonds and currants. For a real soul soother, try the slow-braised lamb neck goulash, lightly spiced with paprika and cut with the sharp tang of crème fraiche; or the lamb and veal meatballs, resting on a bed of cheesy, truffled cauliflower and showered with porcini crumbs. 86 Federal St, central city
Over on Dominion Road at Ralph’s they’re serving top-quality renditions of feel-good fast food favourites, accompanied by a laid-back, delightfully kitsch vibe to match. At breakfast time, their menu has a Tex-Mex bent, with breakfast burritos and egg dishes topped with chorizo, jalapenos, chipotle and salsa. At night, you’ll find an excellent selection of beer; fries loaded with beef short rib chilli, jalapenos and nacho cheese; and fried chicken burgers stacked with hot sauce, slaw, ranch dressing and sweet pickles. 225B Dominion Rd, Auckland
Clockwise from left: A classic burger at Ralph’s, A Pie Piper pie, Orleans pies: pecan (left), banana cream, spiced pumpkin.
If sweet treats are more your flavour, check out The Pie Piper and Doornuts whose counter is heaving with a rainbow-hued selection of classic and seasonal American pies and doughnuts. On weekends they also serve Southern-style biscuits – similar to, but better than, a kiwi scone – with fillings such as breakfast sausage, cheese, egg and apple butter; or fried chicken, iceberg lettuce, cheese and ranch. 321 K’ Rd
If you want your soul food with a side of jazz and blues, head to Orleans where, Wednesday through Saturday, live music will accompany your plate of chicken and waffles, which are savoury, sweet and spicy with maple chipotle, crisp sage, and herb butter. End on a sweet note with pie: pecan, banana cream or spiced pumpkin. 48 Customs St East, Britomart
Words by: Leisha Jones.
This article first appeared in Paperboy.
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