Smoked fish soup

1.Place fish in a shallow pan. Cover with 3 cups water and gently simmer for 5 minutes, turning once, until just cooked. Lift fish from pan, reserving liquid. Remove skin and bones and break flesh into large chunks. Set aside.

2.Add potato and leek to reserved liquid in pan with 1 cup of milk and season to taste. Cover and simmer on medium heat for 10 minutes, until potato is tender. Coarsely mash with a potato masher.

3.Add remaining milk to pan with parsley and simmer for 2 minutes, until thickened slightly. Return half of fish to pan with butter and reheat gently. Ladle into serving bowls and top with remaining fish, chives and a grinding of black pepper. Serve with buttered toast.