Aaron McLean
A ham is variously defined as an excessively theatrical actor, an amateur radio operator or the smoked thigh and buttock of a swine – but only one of them looks delectable on the festive table.
A Christmas ham is most commonly a cured hind leg of pork; the meat is brined then cooked or smoked, which gives different hams their distinctive flavours. A large ham may seem costly, but per serve it is good value. It also looks impressive, goes a long way and keeps well, so you can enjoy it for up to two weeks after Christmas (if you have any left).
To prepare the ham
• Most folk find a half ham up to around 5kg sufficient unless hosting a banquet.
• Ham doesn’t need cooking, just heating through. It’s a big joint, though, and takes a long time for the heat to penetrate, so make sure you get it in the oven in good time.
• Calculate heating time, allowing 20 minutes per kilo. Preheat oven to 160°C.
• You can prepare a glaze when the ham is in the oven and set it aside until needed (glazing occurs during the last 40 minutes of heating time). A glaze makes the joint look and smell gorgeous but the ham itself will still taste like ham as the glaze is separated from the meat by a thick layer of fat.
• You need to remove skin to expose the smooth layer of fat underneath. Slip fingers under skin to separate it from the fat then run hand under the skin, peeling it away. Discard skin.
• Score the fat into a diamond pattern with a sharp knife. Press a clove into the centre of each diamond (I often attach a fresh bayleaf too, using the clove as a pin). You can also decorate ham with pineapple rings, slices of orange and glacé cherries (attach with toothpicks) or leave plain. Place ham in a large roasting pan.
• Place ham in the preheated oven and prepare your chosen glaze. Forty minutes before the end of heating time, increase oven temperature to 180°C. Liberally brush ham with glaze and repeat at regular intervals, sloshing on some of the pan drippings as you go. Serve ham warm or cold in slices.
• Leftover ham can be stored in the fridge for up to two weeks. Cover loosely with foil or damp tea towel or store in a ham bag. Use in fritters, salads, hash or breakfasts.
• Leftover ham can also be frozen; freeze it diced or shredded (to add to soups or omelettes) or in slices.
From one end to the other
The hock end is the lower part of the ham and has the bone protruding. Because the muscles in this region get more exercise the flesh can be tougher and chewier but most people agree that having the bone in adds to the flavour of the meat.
The chump/rump or aitch bone end is the upper part of the ham. The meat is more tender but not as handsome to present without the distinctive bone. Boneless hams, however, are far easier to slice.
Photography by: Aaron McLean.
